There are 97 national parks and a good 440 wildlife sanctuaries.
Some, such as Periyar National Park in Kerala, are easily accessible to
tourists; others including Mouling National Park in the north eastern
state of Arunachal Pradesh, are challengingly remote. In many, elegant,
black-faced langurs and thuggish rhesus macaque monkeys are ubiquitous;
spotted deer (or chital), too. All of them are meals for a variety of
predators. Meantime, even those who have never felt moved to pick up a
pair of binoculars at home are inevitably entranced by India's
bird-life, from eagles and hornbills to kingfishers, paradise
flycatchers and scarlet minivets – the poetry of whose name is matched
by the dazzling plumage of the males.
Across the country the Zoological Survey of India (
zsi.gov.in)
has recorded 92,037 species of fauna – a figure that includes four
species of spider and 22 of frogs that were discovered only last year.
It also includes 57 critically endangered animal species, ranging from
the psychedelic-blue gooty tarantula to the pygmy hog being bred in
captivity in Assam. The list of endangered animals in India runs from
Asiatic bear, primarily inhabiting Himalayan regions, and Asiatic lion,
now surviving only in Gujarat (see "Lion's share") to leopard (common,
snow and clouded species) and wild buffalo – mostly found in Assam and
with a recovery programme under way in Udanti sanctuary in the central
state of Chhattisgarh. And then, of course, there's the tiger. On the
last official count (in 2010), there were 1,706 Bengal tigers left in
India.
As the release of Ang Lee's film version of Yann Martel's
Life of Pi shows, our fascination with tigers is undimmed – and it would
be impossible to overstate the tiger's importance to India's tourist
industry. Yet this summer, tiger tourism was effectively banned
in India. That was thanks to a ruling the Supreme Court made in response
to a petition filed last year by an environmental campaigner. After
much lobbying by the tourist industry and conservationists, the ban was
lifted in mid-October. India's 41 tiger parks are now open again,
although entry regulations are being redefined, to be ratified in April.
At
Rajasthan's Ranthambore National Park – among the most celebrated of
the tiger sanctuaries – one of the key considerations is tourist volume.
"We're reassessing the carrying capacity of vehicles to determine how
many people can potentially look at an animal at the same time," says
Yusuf Ansari, conservationist and host at the stylish tented camp Sher
Bagh (00 91 11 4606 7608;
sujanluxury.com)
just outside the park. He adds that the known population of 56 tigers
in the greater park area has swelled with a number of cubs this year.
The hotel features as part of a week's private tour offered by Greaves
Travel (020-7487 9111;
greavesindia.co.uk) from £2,150 per person, including flights, two nights in Delhi, and four nights and game drives at Ranthambore.
David
Mills, managing director of tour operator Naturetrek, says that now is
an excellent time to make a tiger trip. Because of the summer ban, many
visitors cancelled their bookings so "the reserves are likely to be
unusually free of tourists in the coming months". Among the small group
trips arranged by Naturetrek (01962 733051;
naturetrek.co.uk)
is a new "Tiger Direct" nine-day holiday combining Pench and Kanha
parks (the latter was the inspiration for Kipling's Jungle Book) in
Madhya Pradesh. The price from £2,095pp includes flights from Heathrow
to Mumbai as well as all accommodation and game drives. Alternatively,
Explore (0845 291 4541;
explore.co.uk)
offers a shorter six-day group "Tiger, Tiger" Trip in Ranthambore from
£499pp, including two nights' accommodation in Delhi, train transfers,
accommodation at Ranthambore, four game drives and a visit to
Ranthambore Fort (£1,192 with flights).
Lion's share
Slightly
smaller than their African cousins and with a more orangey tint to
their fur, the world's only Asiatic lions live in Gujarat's Gir National
Park in western India. In the mid 1980s, the population of this big cat
was just 239; now there are more than 410. Numbers, in fact, are
starting to be too great for the park and relocation of some of the
animals is becoming necessary. See them with Cox & Kings (0845 527
9047;
coxandkings.co.uk)
which features the park as part of a 13‑night private tour of Gujarat
from £4,050pp with flights from Heathrow to Mumbai, excursions,
accommodation and two nights at the Lion Safari Camp in Gir.
Wild elephants
With
stupendous thickets of bamboo growing among teak, silver oak and
sandalwood, Nagarhole National Park in Karnataka is one of the most
striking reserves in southern India. And it is probably the best place
to see wild elephants too.
There are an estimated 800 here – along
with gaur (an Indian type of bison), wild dog, the odd tiger, leopard
and much more. Audley Travel (01993 838300;
audleytravel.com)
offers a 15-day "Southern India Explored" itinerary that includes two
days in Nagarhole as well as visits to Mysore, Sultans Battery and Ooty.
The trip costs from £3,055pp which covers flights from Heathrow to
Bangalore, private car with a driver/guide, and comfortable
accommodation.
River and rhinos
The mighty
Brahmaputra river is home to rare Ganges dolphin that move like
quicksilver and occasionally arch right out of the water. (Blink,
though, and you'll miss them.)
On the western bank of this great
waterway, about halfway along its course through Assam, is the Kaziranga
National Park. This watery world of lakes and marshes is inhabited by
more than 1,500 one-horned rhino, as well as wild buffalo, otters and a
fabulous range of birds. Happily, there's a great way of seeing all
these creatures: the Assam Bengal Navigation Company (
assambengalnavigation.com) operates cruises in atmospheric river boats that stop at the park.
Noble Caledonia (020-7752 0000;
noble-caledonia.co.uk)
offers these cruises as part of a 17-night package to the Assam region.
The price from £4,795pp covers flights from Heathrow to Kolkata via
Dubai and onward air travel to Guwahati, all accommodation including 14
nights onboard the boat, most meals and game excursions in Kaziranga in
4x4s and on elephant back.
Leopard adventure
The
rare snow leopards of the Himalayas are exceptional athletes, able to
leap over great mountain ravines, making them extremely difficult to
track. However, in February and March next year, Steppes Discovery
(01285 643333;
steppesdiscovery.co.uk)
is taking two small groups on quests to look for snow leopard in the
dramatic terrain of Ladakh in the north-west. Led by experts who have
worked with BBC and National Geographic film crews, the trips are
accommodated in a comfortable campsite from which you visit remote
monasteries as well as make excursions to find snow leopard in Hemis
National Park. The cost of £2,995pp includes flights from Heathrow to
Delhi and onward air travel to Leh, all accommodation and guidance.
Hero of Uttarakhand
Jim
Corbett, naturalist, author and conservationist, was a colonel in the
British Indian Army who was born in India in 1875 and lived there until
1947. In 1936, he helped establish the country’s first national park in
what is now the state of Uttarakhand in the north. Corbett National
Park, above, is a little smaller than Britain’s New Forest and it backs
on to other wildlife sanctuaries: together they form a vast protected
area that contains a remarkable range of flora as well as tigers,
elephants, sloth bears, hog deer and more. A five-night stay is offered
by TransIndus (020-8566 3739;
transindus.co.uk)
as part of a week’s package costing from £1,898pp. The price covers
flights from Heathrow to Delhi, two nights in the capital, transfers,
accommodation at Jim’s Jungle Retreat in Corbett park and all game
drives.
Jungle tips
Book your game drives
well ahead of your visit, advises Hashim Tyabji, former chief warden of
Bandhavgarh National Park and owner of Forsyth’s Lodge (
forsythlodge.com),
above, on the edge of the Satpura Reserve in Madhya Pradesh. The number
of vehicles admitted to the reserves/parks at any one time is strictly
limited. Bookings are made through tour operators (in the UK or locally)
and hotels. Wear neutral colours, Hashim adds – many safaris are made
in open-sided 4x4s or on elephant back, and bright colours will stand
out particularly on these trips. Carry binoculars; even small ones will
transform your experience. Speak softly and avoid sudden or quick
movements. And, he emphasises, don’t pressure your guide and driver to
conjure a tiger: you will see much more if they are relaxed and not
feeling they have to race around. A five‑night stay at Forsyth’s is
offered as part of a week’s trip with Indian Explorations (01993 822443;
indianexplorations.com).
The price from £1,929pp includes flights from Heathrow to Delhi and
onward air travel to Bhopal as well as all accommodation, most meals and
game drives, guided walks and motor-boat safaris.
Source: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/asia/travellers-guide-indian-wildlife-holidays-8413667.html